Today we rise to a mostly overcast sky, but with bits of blue trying to poke through. It is still early spring in Sheridan, WY, with cool evenings, but day temperatures heading north of 65. We have a short day today, so take it very easy. We'd like to leave by 10:00 am, but it's OK if we don't. After showering and organizing, we visit the breakfast bar. It is standard hotel fare, but the coffee is good. We return to our room to while away the morning, then load the car to face the 3 hour drive to Deadwood, South Dakota.
Today's drive will take us across the width of the Powder River Basin. We start in Sheridan, WY on the west to end up in The Black Hills of South Dakota. This region supplies 40% of the coal mined in the USA. We will see trainloads of coal as well as some actual coal mining activity on today's drive.
We start by saying farewell to the Bighorn Mountains:
This snow-capped vision will haunt us in the rear-view mirror for the next 50 miles. This is the last we will see of high mountains for quite a while.
Central to North Eastern Wyoming is very sparsely populated. We share the road with a few semi's, but see very few people outside their vehicles. The driving is easy.
The terrain changes to High Plains:
Near the end of the ride, we see the Black Hills rising. We cross into South Dakota and turn off the Interstate at US 85 for the last few miles into Deadwood. We quickly find our Hotel, the Deadwood Mountain Grand.
Deadwood began as a mining camp inhabited by the people heading into the Black Hills following the discovery of gold. Around 1870, as the gold began to be harder to extract (and mining companies became large enterprises), the camp transitioned to a city of several thousand. With the transition, Civic life settled down, with more traditional structures appearing. Tents gave way to brick buildings. The population peaked in 1879. With the vote to legalize gambling in 1989, the town got a new lease on life. Abandoned building were restored. The entire town is designated a National Historic Place.
Our Resort Hotel is actually two buildings. The original slime plant, along the creek, was not possible to restore to hotel habitability (Historic designation...), so the investors repurposed it to a casino and built a new building uphill from the plant for the hotel. The two buildings are connected by an elevator; the top of the elevator is an horizontal extension off the Lobby floor of the hotel building. Very clever.
After settling into our room, we have lunch in "The Six String", a sort of western Hard Rock Cafe knock-off. Amy has the Gyro sandwich while I have the French Dip. Both are good. We then decide to walk through the historic downtown.
The area is quite playful.
One sign outside a bar: "Free Beer! Free Topless Dancers! Free False Advertising!"
At one bar, I notice a soccer game on the TV. Excellent! FC Dallas is up on Atlanta United, 1 - 0 toward the end of the first half. We decide (I decide and Amy is OK with it) to have a drink and watch the match. We decide to continue our exploration of the town when halftime begins.
We stroll the rest of Main Street, then start looking for Mount Moriah Cemetery. It's at the other end of town, nearer our hotel. We end up walking up a very steep hill (the Mount portion of the name is no false advertising). This walk was steeper than Queen Anne Avenue between Roy and Highland. We arrive and enter the cemetery. The famous spot here is the tomb of Wild Bill Hickock (shot in the back of the head while playing poker in a saloon on Main Street). Just next to him lies Calamity Jane.
That black blotch in the picture's upper left is a statue of Wild Bill. There is a plaque shown in the lower right identifying this as Jane's plot. Apparently, her dying request was to be buried next to Bill.
After paying homage to the famous duo, we explore the rest of the cemetery. Amy remarks that there is very little religious iconography here. Only one or two crosses appear. And even in the Jewish section there are only a couple of Stars of David. We marvel at the hard lives these people led. Mothers buried at age 47. Many children buried in their family plots who died at age 5 or less. We come to an edge overlooking Deadwood Gulch, an American Flag is waving and a sign states that the city has permission from the US Congress to fly the flag Day and Night in honor of residents who fought in World War I.
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View from the Cemetery of Deadwood |
Really glad we stopped in here, we return to our hotel. We rest up for dinner, and as 7:00 approaches, we head back onto the Main Street to eat at Legends Steakhouse in the Historic Franklin Hotel. I'm particularly happy that the Hotel is only 3 blocks away from ours as my legs are aching from all the hill climbing we have done today.
We share a steak which is cooked to perfection. Having shared an appetizer and gotten our own sides, we eat too much food. We head back to our hotel and collapse after a long, but interesting day.